Marci Zelmanoff: Repousse Brooch, 1977
Mixed metal brooch by pivotal 1970’s studio jewelry artist Marci Zelmanoff, this is a three-dimensional sculptural work, the domed forms formed by repousse in copper and 22K gold, wrapped in sterling and fine silver wire. The brooch measures 2-1/2″ x 2″ x 3/4″. Signed, dated 1977.
From the NY Times archive, 11/18/1978:
“Seated in her cluttered SoHo loft studio, surrounded by her paintings and the tools of her trade, Marci Zelmanoff discussed the direction her jewelry has taken over the past two years, a rich period of creativity culminating in a one-woman show, “Works in Metal: 1976-78,” at the Aaron Faber Gallery, 666 Fifth Avenue, through next Saturday.
The artist has always exploited the different colors of metals and used fanciful convolutions of wire extensively in her baroque pieces. These days, however, she is using the different shades and karats of gold, along with copper, brass and bronze, as a painter uses a palette of colors. She “draws” forms with wire as an artist would use a pencil.
The purer the gold the brighter it is. Working with 22-karat gold is, Miss Zelmanoff said, “like sewing with silk” and 24-karat gold she finds. “pops right out at you.’ Contrasts are obtained with lower karat green and red golds, which take their coloration from the alloy used.”