Marci Zelmanoff: Wrapped Silver and Gold Ring
Marci Zelmanoff’s wire-wrapped and fabricated jewels from the 1970’s are stellar examples of the art jewelry movement that flourished in this era. Here, a repousse 14K gold domed center ‘jewel’ is wrapped in sterling silver and gold wires. The ring measures 3/4″ x 7/8″ and is size 5-1/2.
Zelmanoff’s work is under the radar still, despite her inclusion in seminal publications in the 1970’s and 80’s and is a great value. From the NY Times archive, 11/18/1978: “Seated in her cluttered SoHo loft studio, surrounded by her paintings and the tools of her trade, Marci Zelmanoff discussed the direction her jewelry has taken over the past two years, a rich period of creativity culminating in a one-woman show, “Works in Metal: 1976-78,” at the Aaron Faber Gallery, 666 Fifth Avenue, through next Saturday. The artist has always exploited the different colors of metals and used fanciful convolutions of wire extensively in her baroque pieces. These days, however, she is using the different shades and karats of gold, along with copper, brass and bronze, as a painter uses a palette of colors. She “draws” forms with wire as an artist would use a pencil. The purer the gold the brighter it is. Working with 22-karat gold is, Miss Zelmanoff said, “like sewing with silk” and 24-karat gold she finds. “pops right out at you.’ Contrasts are obtained with lower karat green and red golds, which take their coloration from the alloy used.”