Peter Schmid/Atelier Zobel: primal symbols masterly expressed in pure gold, organic structures contrasted by geometric forms, abstract canvases sparkling with tiny details ... For more than half a century, Zobel design has clashed with conformity to create a distinct line of jewelry.
‘My aim is to create a connection between the raw materials and the body, to form a stage for unique personal expression’, says Peter Schmid designer & owner of Atelier Zobel. ‘Our jewelry is not for everyone, we create our work for the bold, for the fearless …’
The jewels are flamboyant, dramatic precious jewelry that combines wearable forms with a theatrical, larger-than-life esthetic. This effect is created in part by the exaggerated three-dimensionality of many of the designs; like all out of scale forms, it demands that we re-evaluate the form itself and its function. Certainly, one function is as pure sculpture, in which the scale is crucial to the viewer; another is theatricality and the attention brought to the wearer. In all of this play of scale and size, there is a great sense of fun: an enjoyment of color and patterns for its own sake and a true pleasure in jewelry as ornament.
To create the variety of patterns, textures and colors in the work, Atelier Zobel resorts to a wide variety of technique and materials. The patterned gold surfaces are 24K fused on 18K gold. Often, sterling silver surfaces are patterned with 24K gold or platinum fused on the oxidized sterling, to create the effect of charcoal-on-paper. Schmid’s studio also uses contrasting precious metals to fuse images – flowers, koi fish, graphics – onto the jewel’s surface. Schmid notes that ‘materials that emerge from nature are the base of our work, however cities are my points of energy and stimulation. The city beat that is exemplified in art, music, architecture, the intersections between man, creativity and nature provide the foundation for my design ideas’.